Monday, 25 May 2009

A Reviews Of Cosmetics And Skin Care: What's New

More technological and scientific advances have occurred in
those past 5 years than in the previous 50.

Let start with Peptides, Peptides is a purely chemical product
from synthesis. Many forms of peptides for the Skin Care
industry; where first developed by scientists in Switzerland,
France and Spain under different forms. Peptides are chains of
amino acids. For example insulin is a polypeptide. Very often
you will see on the Skin Care labels: Polypeptide with is a
generic name with no specific reference to the length of the
chain. Other time you will read dipeptide (two amino acids)
tripeptide (three amino acids) and so on, pentapeptide has a
chain of five amino acids. They are usually followed by a name,
telling by which method they where synthesized. What must
interest you is that: they are in the product you are buying.
Some peptides have the ability to regenerate collagen other to
regenerate skin cells and other will act on your blood glucose
level like insulin.

Do not spend money on products which do not contain at least
one form of peptides, those are old formulations and old
products or raw material in stock in the manufacturer warehouse.
Changing the manufacturing process will necessitate the scraping
of tons of unusable raw material which is not compatible with
peptides formulations; and also the need to take in
consideration the millions of dollars already spent on packaging
and advertising contracts which cannot be changed. The peptides
pose formidable formulation problems in their adequate
absorption and retention under skin surface, and stability. The
copper peptides are very sensitive to other chelating
ingredients in the formula and strong oxidizing-reducing
ingredients. The bioinorganic chemistry of peptides is complex.
The peptides generally work in one of their three different
specific intracellular forms and any disruption of this property
can hinder their efficiency or alter their intended benefits.
Your best bet is to found products which contain one or more
form of peptide. A small but very good company is The Skin
Society. All their products contain one to three forms of

Another point to be aware is the number of peptides in the
chain is not a factor in the in the effectiveness of the
product. Often the advertising material for your skin care
product do not exactly match the labels, this is because the
labeling requirement is governed by the INCI "International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients" which often use chemical
name instead of the name of the product. But the owner of the
trade name of the product often spend considerable among of
money to advertise their product to create a demand and thus
pushing the manufacturer to use it. So the manufacturer use in
is products he advertise it on is printed material, often with a
percentage paid by the supplier of the raw material to
perpetuate the demand. Their is approximately 2 dozen of
suppliers and the most commons are those one.

As an example of products you should look for with their INCI

SYN®-AKE = dipeptide, Swiss manufacturer
ARGIRELINE = hexapeptide-8 Spanish manufacturer
MATRIXYL = Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 French manufacturer
VIALOX = Pentapeptide-3 Spanish manufacturer
Products which are claiming Botox replacement with no needles
are formulated with VIALOX.

But these claims are at the limit of what is acceptable as the
truth in labeling is concerned. It's true that Vialox act
similarly to components like curare a naturally derived
substance that is as active Botulinum neurotoxin type A.Vialox
is a peptide that acts in a manner similar to that of
Tubocurarin, main active compound of curare although is
composition is different from curare Vialox act at the same
point of action: the post synaptic membrane where it blocks the
release of sodium ions. As a consequence of this the muscles
stay relaxed. Already a new promising product is lurking in the
corner of cosmetic labs everywhere: A Swiss apple stem cells to
protect skin stem cells.

This is the first in a series of reviews of cosmetics and
cosmetics products. There will be additional articles in this
series where additional insightful facts and tips will be
provided on the topics of cosmetics, cosmetology and women's
beauty and skin health.

About The Author: Mike A. I. Hegi PhD Senior Skin Cosmetic
Formulation Chemist Swiss Trained The Skin Society